Anatomy of a Watch Chain Necklace: Dog Clip, Spring Ring, and T-Bar Basics

Three watch chain necklace features to know about – from what they were used for then, to how they can add to your neck stack now.

This article was originally published on a WordPress blog that I’ve retired in favor of Substack. Thanks for reading!

When it comes to gold or gold filled watch chains, each vintage and antique piece has its own unique character. Of course, a lot of this comes down to the type of chain link. But whether you’re looking at a watch chain necklace with intricate Art Deco bars, delicate Victorian filigree details, or sleek mid-century links, you’ll probably notice they have several features in common. 

Here are some of the most popular watch chain necklace features to know about. Read on to find out what they were used for back in the day, and how they can elevate to your neck stack now!

What’s a dog clip and how can you style it?

A dog clip is one of those little details that make a vintage watch chain necklace such a versatile piece to have in your collection. 

Found at the end of a watch chain, a dog clip (also called a swivel clasp) is a hook-shaped piece that would traditionally hold a pocket watch. These often swivel freely, as a way to prevent the watch and chain from twisting all around. Sometimes, there are two on one chain.

To open a dog clip, you'll push a little hinged piece inward. The advantage of this design is that it won’t open on its own. So, whatever you connect it to will be nice and secure. 

When wearing your watch chain necklace, you can use the dog clip as a regular clasp at the back of the necklace. But it can look great if you position it right at the front. Here, you can attach your favorite charms, pendants, and fobs right onto the dog clip. 

Or, you can use the dog clip to connect the end of one watch chain necklace to the end of another for added length.

What’s a spring ring and how does it work? 

A lot of antique and vintage watch chains have a dog clip on one end and a spring ring on the other. The spring ring (also called a bolt ring) is a circular clasp with a spring-loaded piece. You can easily pull this open and closed using a little lever. 

Traditionally, these could be used to hold other accessories like watch fobs. Larger spring rings could be clipped onto a buttonhole as well. 

Just like a dog clip, a spring ring is a great place to hang charms and pendants. You can use it like a regular clasp or an extra detail that makes your watch chain necklace stand out.

What’s a T-bar on a watch chain necklace? 

Traditionally, a T-bar would be tucked into the wearer’s buttonhole to help secure the watch chain in place. It's a simple bar, about an inch or so in length, connected to the rest of the chain in the middle. When worn in a buttonhole with the chain hanging down, it forms a T-shape, hence the name.

These days, a watch chain with a T-bar can immediately add a burst of personality to your neck stack. You can leave the T-bar to hang down like a pendant. Or, try slipping it into one of the clasp ends like a toggle.

Looking for a watch chain necklace of your own?

Visit my shop for available watch chains, charms, fobs, and more. And be sure to follow along as there'll be plenty more coming soon!

Photos by Jess Barker