The *Official* Difference Between Gold Filled, Gold Plated, and Gold Vermeil Rings
When it comes to gold plated vs. gold filled vs. gold vermeil rings, here the key differences you should be aware of, as outlined by the FTC.
This article was originally published on a WordPress blog that I’ve retired in favor of Substack. Thanks for reading!
Gold vermeil, gold filled, and gold plated rings are all suitable for fashion rings. They’re more affordable than solid gold pieces and still offer the rich golden glow you’re looking for. Given the major trend for yellow gold rings, it’s nice to have options.
But these jewelry terms are sometimes thrown around interchangeably. And jewelry brands sometimes seem to place a different value on each one.
For instance, one ring retailer might suggest that gold vermeil rings are the best investment, second only to solid gold. Meanwhile, another brand may imply that gold filled rings are the only way to go.
When it comes to gold plated vs. gold filled vs. gold vermeil, is one better than the other? Well, not exactly – they’re just different. To help you understand each one, I’m outlining the key differences you should be aware of when shopping around for gold vermeil, gold filled, or gold plated rings.
Who defines these jewelry terms, anyway?
If you run a quick search for “gold filled vs. vermeil” or “what’s the difference between gold plated and gold vermeil,” you’ll come across a lot of misinformation. I think much of this comes down to ring brands oversimplifying these jewelry terms.
But there actually are real, official definitions for gold vermeil, gold plated, and gold filled jewelry. These come from the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) and their published “Guides for the Jewelry, Precious Metals, and Pewter Industries.”
The FTC produced revised Jewelry Guides in 2018. (You can find the updated guidance here, starting on page 120.) The FTC’s Jewelry Guides exist to help jewelry manufacturers and marketers avoid making deceptive claims that may mislead customers. Basically, the goal is so that customers aren’t guided into thinking they’re getting something they’re not.
But the guides can also empower consumers. By understanding what different product designations actually mean, you can spend your money wisely and treat your jewelry with the care it deserves.
It’s easy to be dazzled by a glistening golden ring and forget to ask what it's made of. But I’ve spent some time digging into the FTC’s official guidance so you don't have to! Let's explore the differences between gold vermeil vs. gold filled vs. gold plated – and why these differences matter.
What are gold vermeil rings?
If a ring is made of gold vermeil (pronounced ver-may) this means that it's essentially gilt silver. The base metal is sterling silver, and this is coated with a thin layer of gold. You’ll often see gold vermeil rings stamped with 925 on the inside instead of a gold hallmark like 14k. (This is because sterling silver is 92.5% silver.) If you see that marking, it's an easy way to know there's sterling silver beneath the gold surface.
Here’s the FTC’s official definition of gold vermeil:
“An industry product may be described or marked as ‘vermeil’ if it consists of a base of sterling silver coated or plated on all significant surfaces with gold, or gold alloy of not less than 10 karat fineness, that is of reasonable durability and a minimum thickness throughout equivalent to 2.5 microns (or approximately 100 millionths of an inch) of fine gold.”
If there is a layer of any other metal, like nickel, between the silver and gold, the piece cannot be considered gold vermeil. The FTC doesn’t specify how this plating or coating must be applied. Options include electroplating and mechanical application processes, which we’ll soon learn more about. But the outer layer of gold must be at least 10k gold.
What are gold plated rings?
Unlike gold vermeil rings, gold plated rings do not have to be made of sterling silver. They do sometimes have a sterling silver base, and gold plated rings often contain a brass base. But this isn't strictly a requirement. Copper, nickel, zinc, and other metals and alloys can also be used.
Like gold vermeil, gold plated rings must have at least a 10k gold coating. And the karat fineness must always be specified with gold plating. So, a ring might be labeled as “14k gold plated brass” or “18k gold plated sterling silver.”
(Although, in creating my guide to affordable ring brands like Mejuri, I noticed that not all jewelry retailers do this. Some retailers just said “gold plated brass," which isn't exactly helpful! So, make sure you check the FAQ section or contact customer service to determine the karat fineness before you buy.)
The FTC defines gold plated jewelry in two contexts. There’s one definition for when the gold coating has been added through the electroplating process, and another for when the gold has been added by mechanical means.
Possibility #1: Electrochemically gold plated rings
Let’s start with electroplating, which is actually a pretty cool process. The electroplating method involves submerging a metal ring (made of a material like sterling silver or brass) into a chemical solution that contains gold particles.
Once positive and negative electrical currents are applied to the solution and the ring itself, the gold particles in the solution will bond to the ring. The metals are attracted to each other like magnets, but the gold plating will stay on permanently. This leaves the ring with a glossy gold outer layer.
Here’s the first part of the FTC’s definition of gold plated jewelry created through this plating method:
“An industry product ... on which there has been affixed on all significant surfaces by an electrolytic process an electroplating of gold, or of a gold alloy of not less than 10 karat fineness, which is of reasonable durability and has a minimum thickness throughout equivalent to 0.175 microns (approximately 7 millionths of an inch) of fine gold, may be marked or described as ‘Gold Plate,’ ‘Gold Plated,’ ‘Gold Electroplate’ or ‘Gold Electroplated’ ... if the term is immediately preceded by a designation of the karat fineness of the plating.”
Since the layer of gold on a vermeil ring must be 2.5 microns thick, and the gold layer on gold electroplated jewelry must only be 0.175 microns thick, gold plated rings contain less gold than vermeil rings.
Possibility #2: Mechanically gold plated rings
But the definition doesn’t stop there. The FTC also states that mechanical (rather than chemical) plating processes may be used in gold plated pieces:
“An industry product … on which there has been affixed on all significant surfaces by soldering, brazing, welding, or other mechanical means a plating of gold alloy of not less than 10 karat fineness and of reasonable durability may be marked or described as ‘Gold Plate,’ ‘Gold Plated,’ ‘Gold Overlay,’ ‘Rolled Gold Plate,’ ‘Rolled Gold Plated’ ... when such plating constitutes at least 1/40th of the weight of the metal in the entire article and when the term is immediately preceded by a designation of the karat fineness of the plating.”
These mechanical means typically involve heat and pressure to bond the two metals together.
In this second category, a weight ratio, rather than coating thickness, is specified. That’s apparently because this is a more useful marker in ensuring durability for a mechanically plated piece. If the plating is added by mechanical means, the finished piece will have to be 2.5% gold by weight.
What are gold filled rings?
I have to start off by saying that gold filled is a somewhat misleading term, because the gold is always on the outside, not the inside. (But if I’m talking about a cream-filled donut, it better have cream on the inside, not the outside… that’d be way too messy!)
Gold filled essentially means that the piece of jewelry has a thicker gold plating that is filled with another metal. This could be sterling silver, brass, copper, zinc, nickel, or another metal or alloy.
According to the FTC Jewelry Guides, gold filled rings must always be made using a mechanical plating process, as described above. However, gold filled rings contain twice as much gold as gold plated rings that are coated mechanically.
The FTC’s definition of gold filled jewelry continues as an extension of the last passage I cited:
“... When such [mechanical] plating constitutes at least 1/20th of the weight of the metal in the entire article, the term ‘Gold Filled’ may be used.”
Basically, this means that if a gold layer of at least 10 karats has been applied by “soldering, brazing, welding, or other mechanical means,” where the finished piece is 5% gold by weight rather than 2.5% gold by weight, then it can be considered gold filled.
Are gold plated, filled, and vermeil rings the same color as solid gold rings?
From what I’ve seen, gold vermeil, gold plated, and gold filled rings have a different color to solid gold rings that aren’t plated in any way. They tend to have a cooler gold tone than solid gold jewelry, which offers a richer, warmer hue.
In this photo from GLDN, you can see how a 14k gold filled piece has more of a cooler yellow appearance compared to the warm, honey-hued 14k solid gold piece next to it.
And here’s my own snapshot of a few gold pieces: an 18k solid gold ring, a 14k solid gold ring, a 14k gold plated ring, a 14k gold filled hoop earring, and an 18k gold vermeil ear cuff.
Even despite the same karat fineness, the plated and solid gold versions differ in color. The plated, filled, and vermeil pieces have a cooler, harsher, almost brassier yellow color, while the solid gold pieces have a nice warm tone.
You can see the difference even more clearly in the comparison of two of the rings I shared toward the beginning of this post. The ring on the left is an 18k gold plated piece and on the right is a 14k solid gold signet ring. Once again, the solid gold has a warmer, richer color.
Gold vermeil vs. gold plated vs. gold filled rings, at a glance
Here’s a little table I’ve put together to summarize what each of these jewelry designations means and what they consist of:
As you can see, it’s not as if one method is “better” than another. Instead, there are various pros and cons that may impact your decision of which one to choose.
For example, gold vermeil is a great choice for people with sensitivities to other metals, since a gold vermeil ring will always contain gold and sterling silver. But it’s also possible to find gold plated rings with sterling silver – they’ll just have less gold on the outside. This might make them more affordable, though, which could be a plus if you’re just looking for a fun fashion piece.
Gold filled rings are typically more expensive than gold plated rings since they contain more gold – but you also have to consider the fineness of the gold used. A 22k gold plated ring might be more expensive – or more valuable in your eyes – than a 10k gold filled ring. But the thinner layer may wear away more quickly than the thicker layer.
So, really, it all comes down to personal choice! Now that you’re better educated about the different types of rings and what each of the commonly used terms officially means, you’ll be able to choose the piece that’s right for you.