How Do You Wear a Guard Chain? 14 Styling Ideas To Try
Wondering what a long guard chain is, or how to wear one? Here’s an overview of this type of necklace, with more than a dozen ways to style it.
This article was originally published on a WordPress blog that I’ve retired in favor of Substack. Thanks for reading!
If you’re into layered necklaces, a long guard chain might be perfect for your collection. After all, with just one piece of jewelry, you can create an instant neck stack! And there are so many ways to create different looks. But a few common questions I hear are, “What is a long guard, anyway?” and “How do you wear a guard chain?”
Here’s an overview of what this style of chain is all about, including a dollop of history and over a dozen ways to wear a guard chain today.
What is a long guard chain?
A long guard or guard chain is a type of chain popularized in the Georgian and Victorian eras. Women used to wear these around their necks with a watch at the end.
The chain could be tucked into a belt at the waist, or draped over the front of the bodice with the watch tucked away in a convenient pocket. Alternatively, the wearer could clip on a locket or brooch and pin this near her heart. The ladies on the left and right are modeling these two styles, respectively.
A guard chain will typically be constructed in a single loop, since it's long enough to pop over your head (at least once).
There's also usually a swiveling dog clip at the end. This type of fastener allowed the wearer to attach her pocket watch securely, without a chance of it falling off. Plus, thanks to the dog clip's ability to swivel, she could easily turn the watch around for easy viewing. A guard chain embodied style and practicality, all in one!
What are guard chains made of?
Guard chains were made in solid gold or gold filled, but you can also find them in pinchbeck and silver. In past eras, this variety of materials meant that women across the socioeconomic spectrum who had the privilege of owning jewelry could choose guard chains that suited their budgets.
Today it means exactly the same thing! One person might prefer one (or several) less expensive gold filled long guards. But someone else might invest in a hefty solid gold piece with chunky chain links. The nice thing is that there are plenty of options in the vintage and antique jewelry market.
How long is a long guard, exactly?
Guard chains can measure up to about 60 to 64 inches. It’s common to see shorter chains around 50 to 54 inches as well.
The nice thing about long guard chains is that they’re easy to wrap two or three times around your neck. That’s what creates such a fabulous layered look and an instant, effortless neck stack!
What is a slide chain?
Some guard chains also feature a little piece called a slide. This was a decorative little bead – often with gems and etching – that could slide up and down the chain. “Zipping” the slide up the chain would bring the two sides of the chain closer together and create a different look.
A lot of guard chains have slides, which can add some extra personality to your neck stack! But keep in mind when you’re jewelry shopping online that some slides won’t actually stay in place without a little help. You might need to stuff a little piece of paper between the slide and chain to keep it from slipping.
Is a guard chain the same thing as a muff chain?
Not exactly, but both types of chains originated in days gone by and tend to be very long. Sometimes you’ll see a guard chain called a muff chain, but there is a key difference to note.
A muff chain was used to hold a cylindrical fur or fabric hand warmer known as a muff. This type of chain was a single length of chain, not a loop. And it would feature a dog clip or another type of fastener at both ends.
A guard chain, on the other hand, will be closed in a loop like a necklace. And you’ll typically just see one clip at the end. The difference is simple as that!
How do you wear a guard chain? Styling essentials
When it comes to the question of how to wear a guard chain, the truth is that there are countless ways to drape and wrap a long guard. With a chain that measures between 50 to 64 inches long, you should be able to wrap it two or three times around your neck.
The styling all comes down to how you layer the different chain lengths. Some pieces can be longer or shorter, and you can create a specific shape that suits whatever neckline you're wearing. I even love the look of knotting the end of the chain – it creates a sort of laid-back flapper feel.
Additionally, you can place the dog clip – or slide, if there is one – at different spots to achieve a different effect. You'll also have the option of attaching a pendant, locket, or even a cluster of charms to the dog clip to really personalize your chain. If you add a brooch at the end, you can pin your chain wherever you'd like. Alternatively, you can leave the guard chain as-is and just let the glimmering gold take the spotlight.
Now that you know all about this type of jewelry, let’s get onto some real styling ideas you can try out for yourself!
14 ways to wear a guard chain
The model for this guard chain styling session is a beautiful antique 9K gold long guard chain I recently adopted. (I was actually thinking of including it in my Etsy shop, but I fell in love. Off to my personal collection it went!) It measures 60 inches long with a dog clip at the end. That’s 5 whole feet of old gold!! Ever since I gave it a good cleaning and tried it on, I’ve been amazed at all the ways it can be worn.
Here are 14 of the many different ways to wear a guard chain. Let's take a closer look at each style and how to create it.
1. Long, loose drape
With this first option, you'll start by wrapping the chain around your neck three times. Adjust the layers so the dog clip is shorter, and the two other strands drape elegantly below it.
2. Dog clip drop
Modify the previous style by adjusting the three lengths so that the dog clip falls below the rest of the chain. A larger pendant or locket would look great with this style.
3. Triple strand
Similar to the first two styles, this version involves wrapping the chain three times and adjusting it so that each layer hits at about the same length.
4. Quadruple strand collar
For this style, you can fold the chain in half and wrap it around your neck twice, like a choker. Then, you'll hook the dog clip to the other end of the chain to secure it. One option is to keep all the strands the same length, with the dog clip off to the side as an accent.
5. Two chains in one
As a variation on the previous style, you can separate the two strands and allow the dog clip to hang down longer. This works well for charms and pendants, and it gives the appearance of wearing two different chains at once.
6. V-neck swag
This style is another variation on the basic triple-layered wrap. Here, you'll leave one end in a very long swag, and shorten the other two (including the dog clip) to graze over your collarbone. This looks great with a V-neck top.
7. Choker, drop, and drape
If you take the previous style and add a bit of space between the two shortest layers, you'll end up with a tighter choker length and a very long drape. The dog clip will drop somewhere in between. This is a nice option for displaying small, lightweight charms and pendants.
8. Knotted trio
This is absolutely one of my favorite looks! I think it feels very antique and modern all at once. First, you'll wrap the long guard in one of the two previous styles. Then, take the longest piece and knot it loosely.
9. Laid-back neck stack
Once again, here's another way to wear a guard chain with three strands. For this iteration, you'll shorten the longest layer and lengthen the two shorter ones. They should all hit at a medium-long length, creating more of an easygoing layered look.
10. Long double swag
If you create a triple strand with the dog clip as the longest length, bring the clip upward and hook it directly onto the next longest strand. This will create a luxurious double swag. It's a kind of unusual look you can't really achieve with anything but a gorgeous guard chain!
11. Fish scale drape
This method is similar to the previous style. But you'll leave one long end that hugs the bottom of the double swag. I think it creates a sort of fish scale pattern – perfect for all the mermaids out there!
12. Single-strand scarf
Here's a unique way to take advantage of the length of your guard chain. You'll fold the guard chain in half and casually drape it around your neck, like you would a scarf.
13. Long lariat
For this style, you fold the guard chain in half and drape it over your neck, with the ends toward the front. Then, like threading a needle, pass the folded end of the chain through the dog clip. Continue sliding it through to create a long, luxurious lariat effect. Just imagine this with a plunging neckline!
14. Asymmetrical knot
Last but certainly not least! With this style, you start by folding the long guard in half and hooking the dog clip onto the other end of the chain. Drape this over your neck, positioning the dog clip so that it sits toward the side as an accent detail. Finally, knot the bottom half loosely.
There really are so many ways to play with this type of necklace. What's your favorite look?
Photos by Jess Barker